April « 2011 « New Plateaus

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Archive for April, 2011

Studio and Stage

27 Apr

Who would’ve thought that teaching English in China would lead to seeing a World Music Festival and a chance to be on TV? But surprises are expected. When I came to China last fall, I was greeted with cigarette-winning carnival games, kids peeing on the sidewalks, and male friends who like to hold hands just because they’re friends. I also discovered there was more to my school than desks and text books.

TPR English Academy is privately owned. (Yes, they have private ownership in Communist China, though I don’t know the ins and outs of how private anything really is.) As a supplement to normal work and school life, my school operates mainly on weekends and evenings. The bad news has been that the kids aren’t in uniform and aren’t in “school mode”. It surprised me how rowdy some of these little hellions are.

A good surprise is that the owner of my school, a man named Simone, is quite the involved community member. I think his father was a higher-up in local government back in the day; I’m not sure. But Simone seems to have some local pull and I’m pleased to say it’s going to some good use. A perk for me has been my access to what his company organizes.

For instance, he and his family bought an old monastery outside of Zhuhai. I guess it would have been tore down, but instead the old complex is now the Beishan Cultural Center. Last fall it hosted the 1st Annual Zhuhai Jazz Fest. And last weekend was the 1st Annual Zhuhai World Music Festival. And I scored a ticket!

But before you can have a festival you have to promote the sucker—also where Simone’s connections come into play. The festival was promoted on a local TV show and I was asked to come to the taping. I wasn’t sure why, except that they wanted me to appear on camera. Hmmmm.

I arrived and saw that a few other teachers and staff were invited. Here’s inside the TV channel building:

The busts along the hall were historic Chinese figures.

We made our way to the lights, camera, and action of the studio:

Oooh, there's the studio up ahead. The posse is several other TPR employees along for support.

And in we went:

Yep. Reckon this is a studio.

Being here, I was whisked back in time 12 months. I used to tape an interview-formatted show in Minneapolis. Unfortunately, I never did have that stranger come up to me on the street and say, “Hey, you’re the guy from Minneapolitan TV!” But I think it’s pretty cool that I found my way into another studio half-way around the world.

It’s no different than Minneapolis. Well, except everyone’s Chinese:

camera dude

audience

The set. And my shoulders, neck, and head.

And here's the fancy-schmancy host. (There's Simone seated.)

Soon they were off, talking and stuff. Not that I had any clue what they were saying:

Bla, bla, bla. There was a Frenchman there, too. An expat who runs an events website in the area.

It was cool to watch. The cameras rolled and you felt the energy notch up. It wasn’t live, but they also weren’t planning any other takes. So the pressure was on to be light and swift and interesting. All while being watched.

Apparently, not all were entertained, though:

zzzzzzzzzzzz

But I bet he was alert when this next star was asked to make an appearance:

My 15 seconds of fame: I just spoke about the interest in Zhuhai for international art.

More than once, I’ve been asked to participate in PR endeavors. I’d like to think it’s for a lot of impressive reasons. But I know the biggest is that the Chinese think it’s cool to see a white American. I was blown away by this intrigue while walking in a parade in February. People were eagerly reaching out to shake my hand as I walked by. This included grown men.

I think their admiration for the West is partly due to their homogeneity and more isolation. But it’s also just love for Western art and people. Music and film from America and elsewhere are constant hits with the people. It was this intrigue that drove many to the Jazz Fest last fall and to this festival last weekend. Let me show a bit of that shindig.

Last Saturday night, I got out to the Beishan Cultural Center and was greeted with red carpet and flash bulbs. Just kidding. But there was a crowd out front:

Kind of a cool-looking crowd, too. Dude looks like a video game character.

I walked in and saw a performer right off the bat:

She didn't liven the crowd, but sure soothed them.

Not yet “worldly”, either as she was playing Chinese music on a Chinese instrument. But hey, it made for interesting contrast when the Western performers took the stage later on. In the meantime, I headed out to the food and drink area:

A little Vietnamese and Portuguese action at this table.

And a nice international touch with this family:

'Ni Hao!'

Here’s a couple nice local college gals willing to pose:

With that peace signal, I knew they meant no harm.

Back inside, the biggest hit of the night were these guys:

I think they were playing Mozart's Fugue in C for Bongo and Flute

This festival, with its music, food, and alcohol, offered the same ingredients as festivals the world over. The same could be said about the TV taping–no, not the alcohol. I mean the part about the attributes being similar. But though the basics are the same, being here also brings to light the thousand little differences: the style of the events, the reactions from the crowds, the etiquette.

Just chalk this up as another instance that deepens the pools of both the similarities and differences between the peoples of the world.

to new plateaus,

-Brandon

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Posted in Culture, Society, Travel

Yangshuo: Grateful for Rain

24 Apr

Yes, that’s right. I was grateful for the “bad” weather during my time here. Crazy, huh? Well, normally I’d wish for blue skies just like the next fella, but something about this place made the rain feel appropriate. In fact, sunny weather would’ve been a bit lacking.

I awoke my second morning in Yangshuo and realized it was colder, and wetter, than the day before. But I brought my raincoat for a reason and wasn’t discouraged I had to use it. Yangshuo is all about its outdoors, and if nature brings rain, then so be it:

A good day for a trek?

I even rented a bike because I wanted to cover more ground. So on this day I squinted my eyes and peddled through the precipitation. Peddle with me, would ya? It was well worth it.

I hopped atop my steed and glided by businesses opening and pedestrians with umbrellas. It was just a drizzle, but it was still a drizzle. And with my hood wrapped over the back and sides of my head, it was all I could do to be cautious in the reliable chaos of Chinese traffic. I was on a main street heading out of town, but wanted to explore more of the city. So I veered off the beaten path and found a hill which I could climb. Carefully, I made my way up these steps:

No hand rails here; just keep your weight directly above your feet.

It was only about 75 steps, and the view was quite picture worthy.

Yangshuo from above.

Dramatic landscapes can provide an incredible calm. Like gaping into the Grand Canyon, they’re a shock to the senses, a reality telling us, ‘See? This is how small you are. Stop taking yourself so darn seriously. Calm down.’

This view was teamed with a light breeze and quiet. You know that feeling you get from a slow walk in the woods or a mellow cruise along the lake at sundown, not a ripple on the water? Moment by rich moment. But it was more than just the emotional sensation. The rain added to the affect with a physical accompaniment. It was cleansing and clarifying.

I stood and let my guard down and the sobering affect of the drizzle played its part. I actually had some negative feeling come up, apparently needing this window to pass through. Then like a loon’s call on that calm lake, I heard music below somewhere in the thicket of Yangshuo. It resembled a marching band and it sounded like it was coming straight off the record player, some crackles in there for affect. Somehow it made for an appropriate soundtrack.

I got down after a 20 minutes or so and began to bike once more. This time out of town.

I soon was reminded that, like snow, rain isn’t as pretty in the city. Away from town, the drizzle was nourishing and energizing. (Maybe this is why I used to love playing in the rain as a child so much.) I came across other travelers. This gang was enjoying themselves as well:

Looks like fun, doesn't it?

Indeed it does.

This next group from Europe was determined not to let a little rain spoil a family vacation. And they didn’t care how they looked doing it:

'But dad, I can't see anything!';

I think they got it a few sizes too big.

Then I turned the camera on myself:

At one stop a lady called out from across the street. She had to prove her sales skills:

I couldn't resist an honest smile.

And they say good things come in twos, right?

I think they were just after my money.

These ladies are living out their post-golden years peddling flowers to passers by. Kinda cute; a bit saddening; a little touching. I bought some postcards from them and kept going. I had a river to reach.

The bike trial ran alongside the Yudong River. At one point I stood on its bank. This experience contrasted the agitation of the day prior; no noisy engines this time. Drivers navigated by pushing long poles against the river bottom. I watched these flat, bamboo rafts glide by with passengers on board. It was graceful. It was also dreamy. Mist hovered above the water as the drizzle tapped hypnotically against my coat. I looked down and could see fish below the bank. And of course, let’s not forget the anchor of this picture: the signature hilltop terrain in the background. Such a sight; and a second chance to bask. But no old memories came to mind this time: I was all there.

Then I mounted and proceeded:

One last stop provided my favorite shots of the landscape:

It looks like earth shed from the mountaintops and collected below. And now the collected areas resemble the land being curling back toward you. I don’t how these giants were created. (Seriously, is there a geologist in the house?)

Yangshuo’s drastic terrain is a catalyst for a lot of feelings. This day was about letting the natural power of this environment saturate me and transfuse my spirit.

The next day Jordan, Carla and I headed back to Zhuhai. Batteries charged. Here’s to rejuvenation the old fashioned way–with nature.

to new plateaus,

-Brandon

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Posted in Culture, Society, Travel

Yangshuo: Earth’s Teeth

19 Apr

I awoke early and walked to the bus station. Along pedestrian-only West Street stores were closed, but restaurants were open for breakfast. The air was crisp and cool on this 50 degree morning in Yangshuo. Cloudy, but not wet, it had the look and feel of China: not a paradise, but a place of history and genuineness (even in this touristy location). I got my first glimpses of the terrain. Walls of rock towered behind the buildings, adding an enclosed feel to the town. I anticipated the beauty of these monoliths in the countryside.

I got on a full bus shuttling north to the popular drop-off along the Li River. Here was my starting point for the day’s journey. I had just two full days to take in the surreal scenery of Yangshuo. I spent each along (or on) one of its two main rivers. (The Yudong being the other.) My plan today was to ride a boat 14 km north on the Li and then go by foot the remaining 10 to the next town. Along this stretch is displayed some of the best scenery Yangshuo has to offer. And it started with a bang.

I walked down to the landing to see this:

There's the shot I was waiting for.

You see, this exact view has been teasing me since my arrival to China. I’ve seen it a hundred times on the back of every 20 Yuan bill:

A picture worth about $3.50.

And many Chinese were eager to stand in front of this view with bill in hand. Check that off the bucket list, I suppose.

Now it was time to get intimate with this scenery. And it’s time for you to join me on day one in Yangshuo, Guangxi, China.

These buggers were my transport:

All aboard!

Off we trolled and one thing that I cannot say (to my initial surprise) was that the ride was peaceful. The boat engine screamed a whiny roar “WAAAAAAAAA!” along with a whole herd making the same journey. It was cold, sometimes wet, and usually bumpy. I learned an interesting truth about the scenery at Yangshuo: such a backdrop has the ability bring out and magnify a variety of feelings. On this ride, I felt power and abrasion.

Steep rock faces

A violent meeting with the sky.

Earth's Teeth

It wasn’t too long, and we stopped. The intensity of the ride was an experience, but I was ready to settle into a hiking groove. Peddlers offered me trinkets. A cup of tea felt right. Abrasiveness evaporated and the richness of a Guangxi river trek replaced it. Behind the peddlers was a plain of sand and pebbles drifting gradually down into the Li. I looked down:

calming stones

Stones like this are offered in some therapist’s offices. Patients are welcome to handle them for a soothing motion. How these relaxing rocks are carpeted below these unsettling hilltops is a geologic wonder and an irony to behold.

And to add to the variety, a taste of the majestic was out in this pasture:

Fit right in.

Then the hike began, moving to the beat of Li River life. And now, more than natural beauty, an exposure to the ways of locals along the fertile banks was offered. They lived a pace you’d expect.

An older lady on the bottom corner, gardening the old-fashioned way.

Later, I moseyed over to an older gent who tended his bull. He seemed happy to have me come by and got a chuckle out of his bull’s shrug and huff in response to my attempt to pet it.

From earthly contrasts to human ones, the mellow that is emanated from these folks is a novel experience for most westerners. But compared to the noisy, horn-honking ways of urban China, it’s a true 180. It’s so easy to lose track of the joy of being when stacked with the concerns of kids, debt, etc. I don’t have to tell you this, I know. But I do have to say that the stress created due to these everyday concerns is really evident here. Because emanated is the peace hidden beneath.

Back to nature, each corner turned offered a potential postcard shot:

Something about the river parting these peaks! Depicted is the age-old battle of rock vs. water, the static vs. the flowing.

Apparently it’s good for wedding pics, too. Though you’d have to be careful not to dirty your dress getting here:

A totally different kind of beauty. No, not you, dude. Your soon-to-be.

I reached the end of the trek and was treated to one last view:

The fog covering the far mountain was a foreshadow of the following day.

The backgrounds of Yangshuo impressed me in how they bring out an array of emotions. You feel the dramatic, the intimidation, the awe, the calm, and the coziness of those who live amongst these natural skyscrapers. But if the first day was about breadth of emotions, then day 2 was about depth. Stay tuned for it.

And I hope you were able to experience some feelings of your own while reading. It’s a lesson in how our natural surroundings can speak to us and enhance our lives.

to new plateaus,

-Brandon

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Posted in Culture, Society, Travel

Yangshuo or Bust

16 Apr

Hello, Readers. So, what do you think of when you see/hear the word “China”? Do you picture The Great Wall? Perhaps you see a horizon of drab apartment high-rises? Some folks imagine vast terraces of rice patties edged into rolling hillsides. And others may be familiar with the dramatic, jagged terrain in areas of the south.

Ding, ding, ding! We have a winner!

Recently, I spent a four-day weekend in Yangshuo. It’s in northern Guangxi Province, adjacent to the west of my province, Guangdong. Here’s a map for ya:

Kinda tough to see, but Zhuhai is nestled in just to the left of Hong Kong right there on the coast. Yangshuo is in the NW corner of the map near Guilin

That distance represents an eight hour car ride, yet look at how little we moved in the grand scale of China:

There we are down in the south. I went from the middle of the pink province to the edge of the orange one. Yep, China's big.

And yeah, maps are cool, but the sites on the ground are what we’re here for:

Me on the river.

Actually, this is just a teaser shot for what you’ll see later. Oh, but don’t be dismayed. There’s some cool stuff we saw on the way up, and that’s what this post is all about.

I’ve wanted to see Yangshuo since arriving to China. It’s one of those places you see pictures of and think, “that’s Earth?” It has a surreal, mysterious feel to it. And indeed, its features resonate with a variety of emotional notes, all coming together for a complete and lovely chord. And all this only a day’s drive away.

I went with my friends, Jordan and Carla:

At our lodging in Yangshuo.

Going by car, I was almost as excited for the travel itself as I was to see the destination. There’d be much to take in. Other villages, rural areas, new landscapes.

Oh, and this guy:

Smile, you're on areavoices.com!

Since most of my stay in China has been in Zhuhai, even just entering a different city has enough novelty and freshness to remind me, “oh, ya, I’m in China.”

A new city to lay eyes on.

And sticking out everywhere are the unmistakeable reminders that I’m not in the U.S. At a bathroom stop along the freeway, pictures of highway crashes (and corpses) hang over the urinals–I assume to encourage safe driving.

Then again, people do travel a little more risky here:

Hold on to that baby for dear life. Actually who knows? Maybe it’s a watermelon or something.

I got a kick out of these road workers. Apparently, they’re on cleaning duty:

You can imagine his first day on the job: ‘Alright boss, what do you want me to do?’ ‘Well, son, I want to you sweep the freeways.’ ‘Uh, did you say sweep the freeways, sir?’ ‘That’s right. You’ll be plenty busy, now get to it’. Brings back memories of adopting that 2-mile stretch of highway 71.

Soon, the occasional hill turned into consistent ups and downs. The gradual lands of Guangdong were evolving into the geological drama of Guangxi:

Things were starting to get a little rocky.

And with the mountains, comes mountain villages: Chinese style:

Actually, to be more precise, I should say Guangxi-style. (I know how picky you readers are.) Because many of the people here aren’t your typical Chinese. They belong to an ethnic group called the Zhuang who live life their way:

My way or the highway, says their water buffalo.

I got out and followed these beasts back to a pond behind some houses. The ladies thought it was nice to have a new herder:

With robes and staffs, they were kinda biblical.

But I had a heck of a time feeding them (the buffalo, I mean):

I was surprised he refused. I remember feeding an apple to a horse once.

This roadside village represents one of many “Old China/New China” contrasts. Carla, my Chinese friend in the picture above, told me when we first met in Zhuhai that I haven’t seen “real China”, or at least that there are “two Chinas” to discover. In the city, I see the modern version. But there’s another China that hasn’t incorporated current technology into their ways of life. This drive provided a view, if just for a short while.

And the contrasts were clear. On a new road in the middle of this town, traffic cruises 45 mph by people living life at 10 mph. Something’s gotta give, right? But here, it’s the pavement and vehicles that stick out in a backdrop of livestock, small farms, and people with handmade clothes.

This kind of interaction continues in countless forms as modernization reaches into more isolated areas of China. And more than about adapting to new technologies, it’s about a consolidation of cultures. “One China” is a common slogan, but China has 56 ethnic minorities.

These populations are dwarfed by the Han majority, though, and China seems to walk an effective line, putting an over-arching rule over these people while giving them freedom to do what they want inside the “One China” bubble. As they blend, one hopes that these “two Chinas” means the benefits of each predominate.

After this stop it began to darken and after two missed turns, a construction detour, and slow windy roads, we arrived. An 8 hr drive became a 10-hour drive. Ugh. But actually, it was kind of nice not seeing much around us in the dark. It made the scenery the next day all the more surprising.

Next time you read, you’ll see the wonders of Yangshuo.

to new plateaus,

-Brandon

p.s. Feel free to comment or email me at brandon@newplateaus.com. I love hearing back. If you want to connect with facebook or twitter see the sidebar. And in case you missed my introductory post last week, here’s it: first post

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Posted in Culture, Society, Travel

An Introduction

12 Apr

HELLO, BEMIDJI READERS! How wonderful it is, the ease with which I can stay connected with all my old neighbors…from 7,600 miles away. In fact, technology allows me to reach out to more of you from here in China than I could if I was right there looking over your shoulder. So when I made the decision to move here, I knew I had to take advantage of this capability.

Because the fact is, we all have ideas of what China and the Chinese are like. And the news can’t get enough of it—China this, China that. But even with all this coverage, there’s nothing like the impact of actually being here. Man, there’s a big gap between what I used to think and what I think today! You may not be here, but I’ve been writing, taking pictures, and shooting video since August of last year. Over the winter, I reached out to Minnesota newspapers to feature my material. And wouldn’t you know it?—the Bemidji Pioneer and I have hooked up.

But much more than a Chinese tutorial, this blog is about the lessons learned when living in any foreign land. It’s about the novelties of travel, and it’s especially about the observations and insights gained.

Ultimately, it’s about reaching new plateaus of understanding about who we are.

Who I am: My name is Brandon Ferdig. I was born at North Country Regional Hospital on May 15^th, 1981. My family lived in Blackduck—you know, that little pin prick on the map about half-hour north on highway 71. Actually, we didn’t live in town. We were about 4 miles east on a plot of 30 acres of forest and fields.

Hello there.

I left town at 18 and lived the last ten years or so in and around the Twin Cities. I realized that my heart was set on writing and journalism. Blogging, a cable access program, and an internship with the St. Paul Pioneer Press provided a great foundation.

I also started to travel, and the way these experiences blossomed into writing led to the eventual decision to move to southern China, to a city on the ocean called Zhuhai (Pearl of the Sea). For work, I have been teaching the Chinese children and adults my mastery of the English language. (Don’t worry, I give them the Minnesota edition.)

Basically, I moved out here to “get to know the world”. It hasn’t disappointed. Today, I’ll catch you up on some of the images, experiences, and lessons learned since my arrival.

First and foremost, this blog is about people. I bumped into this fisherman my first morning in China:

“Yesterday, I caught a mermaid.”

Some of the older folks like to take advantage of the community exercise equipment:

“I will get into that size 2…”

And here’s a character with his companion:

The local monkey-man wants money for a picture--though it compromises his little friend.

Some salt-of-the-Earth laborers:

Porkmen on the job.

I wrote a couple articles on the lives of the disabled. It said a lot about the social system in place here and the type of character embodied in these folks:

Not your classic Disney scene, but a loving couple just the same.

Armless, but quite capable

A study of people includes what they do collectively–their culture. This Buddhist funeral service brought up issues of death, religion and the afterlife.

A young man bows before the deity.

The Chinese have adopted most of our holidays. Here’s a pic from a Halloween event:

Nice job fulfilling the cute quota, girls.

And of course, there’s the famous cuisine:

Get your snakes and turtles here!

I’ve had my chances to participate, too:

All these years, I had no idea chickens came with a head.

One time, I was hosted by a student’s family. Here’s me giving dumpling wrapping a whirl, as well as learning about life for this middle-class Chinese household:

'Brandon, why don't you just give that to me', said Father.

Back at the Halloween bash…

This is what I signed up for?

And, yes, I’m a teacher. This experience speaks volumes (and can be a little in your face):

My students.

Certainly, life here is different in some funny ways:

You can’t make this up. Yes, those are cigarettes.

Different in some modern ways:

Hong Kong

And full of natural beauty:

Each of these photos represent a chance to compare our lives to something different. This fresh view is enlightening.

If you’re interested, all these photos (and their articles) were taken from my blog, www.NewPlateaus.com. There, I’m in the midst of a travelogue covering a recent excursion to Cambodia and Vietnam. I got to walk with crocodiles, celebrate a Cambodian wedding, see 1000 year old temples, and look into the “eyes” of hundreds of human skulls.

You’ll also notice the “fan box” for my Facebook page and my Twitter feed to the right on this site. Join up. Otherwise, I’ll be providing regular posts right here which you can subscribe to as well.