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Archive for May, 2011

Front and Center

30 May

China, like anywhere, is a land of economic disparity. Recently, I had an interesting illustration of this. It got me thinking of why such “unfairness” exists.

It starts with the bus stops in Zhuhai. They are busy places where people carry change. Soooooooo, looks like we got ourselves a hotspot for folks looking for some charity. But it’s not like there’s 20 children crowding you for cash or anything. Here, it’s a guy with no leg, an old woman; maybe one or two at each stop.

Another customary alms-seeking strategy is to set up a karaoke machine minus the TV and sing to the enjoyment (or not) of those waiting around. A little Chinese street performance. (Interesting note: I’ve found there to be less embarrassment in this society when it comes to performing for others. In karaoke bars really bad–and really sober–singers will mumble away a the mic without any concern for who might be judging, which I’ve also found, is nobody.)

On the streets, though, most often it’s a man or woman who are in need due to medical reasons for them or their children. Sometimes it’s a tougher scene when a mom holds her sick child. (Though one never knows if they are truly sick.)

One day, I walked up and heard the voice of a small child belting through the speaker. So young; this was a unique scene:

With Mommy behind for support, they had written in front of them the reason for their predicament.

It was a telling sight. (I just didn’t know what was being told.) Was it their desperation or child exploitation? Perhaps on the contrary, maybe it was Mom’s way to nurture her daughter’s musical gift. But relegated to the dirty sidewalks, it was in stark contrast to a scene days later.

I was asked to take part in a photo shoot for my school’s new batch of flyers and posters. Naturally, they wanted some students, too. They came all prettied up and ready to dazzle:

Here’s our little pageant princess:

Check out the action:

Yeah, there’s “pageant moms” here, too. I think the one-child policy helps this cause.

It was quite a contrast. Why are these girls in the studio and that wee one singing outside? And she’s not the only one–though younger than most. I noticed a high school girl who, in school uniform, sang at a different bus stop. I asked my friend to ask her why she was doing so. She responded to him, “Wo de Mama mei you qian.” (“My mother has no money.”)

What do we say and think in the face of such disparity? These girls inspired me to think upon the bigger picture, and doing so created a bridge between these situations and countless others. There are all sorts of seemingly nonsensical leaps in prosperity and comforts based on seemingly arbitrary factors. A great baseball player is rich beyond belief. A great ping-pong player just gets by. I come out here and can teach English, thus, I make double what some professionals here get. Then again, I make a quarter of what I did in America waiting tables.

I feel a relief in seeing that this “unfairness” isn’t something directed specifically at these kids, but a natural constant to acknowledge throughout one’s life. It helps me to lighten up. We take things so seriously—whether threatened by another’s success, guilty for having more money than other people, or shame when we fail. But besides the factors we can control and see—hard work, education, financial decisions—there is a bevy of other variables we simply don’t know and are of a volume we can’t comprehend.

A terse and convenient statement, sums this all up as “life isn’t fair”. But when things can’t be explained, they can be troubling—especially when they deal with children. We just have to find the middle ground. Yes, we’re in a world currently, and perhaps forever, marred with inconsistencies. No, it doesn’t mean people are cursed to an existence without escape of the clutches of an unfair world. C’mon now. This randomness means we are not defined, and our worth not determined, by circumstances. No one is stuck in an unjust world, just a sporadic one, which, because of our relative powerlessness, we are free to enjoy. Each person’s situation is unique and success defined individually.

I tried my hardest not to take things too seriously. See? and look at the results:

to new plateaus,

-Brandon

 

It must be China: fashion and cash

24 May

Ni hao, good Reader!

What I gots fer yee here is a sort of variety pack, a bag of mixed nuts, a combo platter of some different sights that make China, well, China. :) What do we think about that?

That's one heck of a thumbs-up you got there.

Right on, Bro. He’s (one of) our neighborhood, friendly, portable fruit vendors. And as you can see he doesn’t need to buy a peeler. Or a knife. Or a trowel.

Out and about, I’ve noticed a few fashion statements here in southern China. Sometimes they show a little more skin than we’re used to:

Okay, okay. So it's not fashion so much as function. Kinda cute--until you see the function operate.

And yeah, this next one is a stretch to call it fashion, too. But where else am I supposed to put this photo?:

Just another sidewalk in Zhuhai.

It’s cool when fashion and culture combine:

Unmistakable China

I saw this kid running around in a restaurant. Makes me wonder if kids in Norway wear old viking’s helmets for fun. Heck, how about even some Scandinavian boys back in Minnesota? Certainly would wear the horns prouder than our men in purple uniform.

At another restaurant I got a taste of more recent culture. After all, China (politically, anyway) is quite new. 1949. Many folks here are old enough to remember, and pay homage to, the leader who started it all.

A special area of this restaurant is devoted to this Mao Tse Tung memorial. Mmmm, mmmm. Whets my appetite.

Personally, I think that many Chinese folk’s capacity for religion is partially taken up by their near-worship of this guy. But to overstate his influence in China and worldwide would be a tough thing to do.

He’s on all their paper money, too.

And one day I tried to exchange some of this Chinese dough for a bit of Hong Kong bread. I went to a bank and asked if it would be cool to do this despite me not being a member there. They said sure. So the next day I returned, took out my wad, and waited for some service. “Okay, Mr. American man, but we’ll need to see your passport.” I brought it just in case. But then came the paperwork. Ugh, I remember being hungry and wanting to get moving:

Gotta hold on while we write, write, write, through the red tape. Yippee!

That got done, and now it was time to see a teller. She was a nice gal, but offered a troubled look. And you never want to see them talking to other tellers, either. :( Then she said to me, “Where did this money come from?” A printing press. No, wait, I mean a tree. Uh, wait a sec. Heaven. “I work here”, I said. A nice lady in the line next to mine helped me realize that I needed to provide proof of income.

Of course I didn’t bring that. Silly me. Then the feeling dawned that all this waiting and hunger was for absolutely nothing. I left with those very same pink bills. Later, I’d approach one of several money-changing ladies who sit on the corner with pouches of cash. I was trying to work one of these black-market transactions, but she looked around like it was a drug deal, so I backed off. I ended up changing money at the ferry port–for a good exchange rate, too: )

(Interesting side note: the Chinese currency, the RMB, is inching up against the dollar. Say, what are you guys doing to my country while I’m away?!) ;)

Yeah, China’s got its ups and downs. What place doesn’t, right? You like it for what it is. Unless, I suppose, they jail you for some unprovoked reason. And staying away from the black markets, I’ll keep my nose clean–just like my fingernail friend. And I’ll keep my eye on the prize–just like this fella–though sometimes the prize is darn-near blinding.

Oh, it's okay. His hand's in the way.

to offering you more and more about life far, far away,

to new plateaus,

-Brandon

 
 

Fore!

19 May

I returned home to Zhuhai from Hong Kong. And last week I had the cool chance to check out a fancy-schmancy golf club here in south China. Since the grass must be getting greener these days back in Bemidji, I’ll provide a timely, seasonal piece here for ya. So for all you putters, drivers and chippers out there, pull up a chair (I reckon you already are seated) and come play 18 with me, or at least enjoy the 19th by reading this post. :)

If you’re not a golfer, don’t feel out of place. This is just one more interesting look at something we’re familiar with, but done with a Chinese twist. Plus, I’m not a very serious golfer, anyway. I played in high school because of a girl and I’ve only played a couple rounds per summer since. Heck, I had as much fun with my caddy as I did smacking the little white, dimpled spheres.

I never imagined I’d play golf in China, but like a disobedient dog, Fate had other ideas. I was assigned to teach English one-on-one with a 12-year-old named, Michael. (Well, actually, his name is Zhou Zi Qian. But students like to have an English name, too. Thank goodness.) My supervisors mentioned he had a thing for golf. I’d say so—turns out he wins all the youth tournaments in these parts.

His parents are happy with my lessons, so offered Michael and I “a good walk spoiled”—that’s Mark Twain’s definition of golf. Right on. Let’s see what an afternoon of 18 looks like in China!

Geez, how big are the holes?

Lakewood Golf Course: yep, sounds like a golf course to me. It’s sort of like how nursing homes are always sunny and happy, like Bob Ross named them–”Happy Little Trees Retirement Home”.

Here’s a shot of Michael and I:

Yep, he's just 12.

The scenery here was top notch. Pleasant, yet, striking hillsides walled-in parts of this course. The day was gorgeous with me getting just a tad sunburned–perfect, just the way I like my marshmellows. First, though, we had to enter the facilities which matched the high bar set by the environmental beauty:

Wow. See? Who says teachers don't live a high falutin lifestyle?!

Turning right, we were met with the friendly reception:

But because I had to wait for this slow-poke, I was forced to look up and enjoy the art. (C’mon, I’m not here to enjoy things; I’m here to golf!)

After that, it was off to the locker room, where the uniforms of hierarchy are replaced with the evening of nudity.

Plus, I had a reminder that these fancy-pants folks still apparently need a tip or two when it comes to Western toileting:

Old habits die hard.

Okay, now let’s get outside and hit some balls.

Right, guys?

'So I says to the guy...'

Heading out, here was the biggest Chinese variable of this golf course:

The caddy shack, Chinese style.

The similar outfits didn’t surprise me, but the fact that all the caddies were women sure did. But, hey, when in Rome, right? These gals grabbed your bag and like a good waitress were there for your every need. They would bring the clubs, wash the ball, drive the cart, and did a heck of job lining up puts. Once I disagreed and it cost me, my ball arching on the green in a way I didn’t foresee, but she did.

Let’s take a look at who “she” was:

Michael's and my caddy. They wore hardhats underneath the bonnets.

And here’s a shot of the others:

At ease, Ladies. Now go out there and read some greens!

Next, the swinging commenced. And I will say that, once you got used to the caddies, it was really no different than playing most anywhere:

'I like your hat.' 'Shhh!, don't talk.'

Lovely view.

And another.

And another.

She putted for me...and missed.

The dress, the etiquette, the manner of the players, the whole vibe was similar. So the million dollar question is: Is this a good example of Chinese imitation of a Western experience? The Chinese, I have found, so adore Western fashion, music, athletes, technology and try to be like them.

Or is it a statement about the way humans from opposite ends of the world like to do things in the same ways?

Either way, I had to remind myself, “Oh ya, I’m in China playing golf!” Then it was obvious, because everyone from the ground crew to the caddies to the players are Chinese. One race here, but social classes are still in place.

And this was most clear toward the end of the day when I walked to the final tee box and noticed these folks from behind a fence:

They were trying for my attention.

So I saw what they were about:

Lost and found golf balls.

Chances are, they chill out behind the fence in a legal grey-area like so many in China do. The portable food vendors in town are all illegal, but they sell regardless–until the authorities come around and then it’s time to high-tail. At the golf course, a security guard was near the tee box, looking out, perhaps, to make sure these ball-sellers didn’t solicit onto the course property.

I suspect as long as they remained behind the fence, they were okay. Although they were not camera friendly, boy, let me tell you. They ducked and covered when I pulled my camera out. I thought I might not get my change back for a few balls after trying to get a shot.

Spending all day on this kick-butt course, it was a reminder of the poverty here, the attempts to get some of that trickle-down $ action, and the line that divides them–literally–right here at this fence.

Much is said about your world even when you try to escape with a day at the links.

The greens were fast, the wind gusty.
My first swings of the year were rusty.

keep that elbow straight,

to new plateaus,

-Brandon

 
 

Hong Kong: Commercial/Genuine

15 May

Let’s go to an island.

Yes, outside Hong Kong’s central areas provides yet another outfit in the wardrobe of life here. And on this day, circumstances allowed me to witness extremes of both the commercial and the peaceful. It was great for travel, and now it’s great for a blog post. :)

Join me.

Cheung Chau is the island’s name. It caught my eye because of its celebrated history and traditions. One event of theirs commemorates the fending off of pirates. For it, they go vegetarian for a week–even the McDonalds takes meat off the menu! I was attracted to this display of culture and connectedness to the past.
Perhaps because it’s in stark contrast to the glamor and sterility of some other areas of Hong Kong.

And as if set up by cosmic forces, making this contrast as glaring as possible, I came upon such a sight on my way to the ferry port the very morning I was headed to the island. A row of designer shops were the floats in a parade of luxury and the paraders were the eager shoppers from all over China who came to shop in Hong Kong this holiday weekend:

Busy, busy, busy. Lines were formed outside as doormen let in a few at a time.

I’ve never known the world of wealth. But apparently, several are part of the club. And like the lines outside of Walmart during holiday season, the wealthy have their fixes and fads, too. Gosh, I thought, one of these fads must be Gucci and their 4-digit priced hand bags.

Another thing that crossed my mind is that many of these consumers are mainlanders–where the American capitalistic desires are scorned by official outlets.

And it turned out this was just one of many stores. Next door was this:

I never knew Prada wearers to be shy. Wait a minute. I've never known a Prada wearer.

And next door to it:

You get the picture.

But, hey, it was nice to see a down-to-Earther, hob-knobbin’ with all the rich folk in line:

Try getting away with this a country club.

Oh, but enough of the hoity-toity. I wanted the genuineness of island life. And at the ferry pier I saw I wasn’t the only one:

C'mon kids. Let's have a family day.

When the boat arrived, the group moves toward the boat with a herd mentality:

Soon enough, we were settled in:

On board

And a quick video of it, as well. :)

Soon, we were at Cheung Chou Island.

Entering the bay.

I landed, kissed the dirt, and I shoved a Minnesotan flag right in the ground. “I proclaim this land!… Oh wait, others got here first.”

So okay, the genuineness I spoke of had to wait a minute as the shell of tourism crusted the outside of the island.

But indeed, in its interior, the island provided some really real realness. ;)

Now time to go find it.

The first place was a temple. I don’t know what it is about these places. You walk into the cool, wood/brick, open-built structure with the stillness of stone-carved sculptures. The natural light, the incense, the faces looking down at you–my soul is both at attention and at ease. The air is rich with an enriching solemnity. I get this same feeling walking into an old cathedral. I’m not sure what does it, but boy, it feels nice.

A counselor (or fortune-teller?) helps out a young couple.

After the temple came the beach. This was a nice little surprise:

And though it wasn’t the best beach on Earth, it was clear, clean waters–something Zhuhai lacks. Yes, my city in China has its littering issues. Here, though, all that was “littered” were little clams that locals were sifting through the sand to collect.

Like this big girl:

Looked like a kid in a clam store.

I even sat down and played clam farmer with them. Here was my clamming partner:

He knew where to get the good ones.

After getting my fingers dirty, I brought a few over to the clam queen, but she kindly set them back down on the ground as they were too small. Oh well, there’s always next season.

Right, girls?

That's right, Brandon!

From here I headed into the island’s interior. A similar, but different calm from that of the temple is waiting for you when you enter the realm of the natural:

Here was that genuineness.

There’s always a creek in a perfect woods, acting as the forest artery. It was hard to believe that this sizable plot of land was so close the gigantic buildings and designer shops of Hong Kong. I assumed this raw land to be worth a fortune, but yet, there was what appeared to be a homestead in the middle of all this natural action:

Living off the land, it appeared.

Soon after the peace of this forest trek, it was time to head back to the activity (and in some ways, the obliviousness) of fast-paced Hong Kong life. This morning I saw folks wrapped up in consumerism; the rest of the day was about the richness that avails even the poorest individual. It was a day of extremes.

This is the beauty of a wealthy place. It allows for a stretched potential of who we can be. And I think most can agree that a wide variety of offerings is a positive thing.

And with that I say goodbye to Hong Kong for now. I’m back in Zhuhai and looking forward to new posts that I have in store.

to new plateaus,

-Brandon

 

Hong Kong International

10 May

When I visited New York a few years back, I remember thinking, “Man, if I want to get to know the world in one place, this is where to be.” The variety of people there surround and expose you to different flavors of humanity.

When I moved to China, I didn’t think I’d ever get that kind of experience. And for the most part, I was right. But I didn’t consider the wildcard of China—Hong Kong. In the last post, I talked about Hong Kong’s unique recipe for success in the modern world. In this one, I’ll show you its human ingredients:

A people watching paradise

Hong Kong has been a sought-after destination for immigrants for a long time. Mainly, this refers to mainland Chinese who sneaked over back when China was very poor. (A student of mine’s uncle actually swam from Zhuhai to Hong Kong on a banana tree. That’s a 70 minute boat ride!)

But this has also been true of people all over Asia and Africa (well, maybe not the banana tree part) who have now well-established communities. Look at some of these lives:

The Indians (Asian Indians) have come with entrepreneur mindsets. Like many immigrants who come to freer lands, they seek to build a better life for themselves. So they sell their tailoring services and knock-off watches. They run restaurants and cheap hotels. And they market themselves. Aggressively.

In an apparent perpetuation of competition amongst each other, it’s not uncommon (in this neighborhood, anyway) to have 4-5 young men approach you to sell their services or goods within a block and a half! No kidding.

I often think that if they could tone it down a notch (or two or three) they’d be a hit in Minnesota where many salespeople have to struggle to get over that fear of rejection. Not these guys. I think they’re trained to not hear the first “no”.

Looking to pounce.

Here’s another a common sight:

The guy in the headpiece is from an Indian/Pakistan people called the Punjabi.

Here’s some fun facts about the Punjabi folks. :) Their language, Punjabi, is the 12th most spoken in the world. It’s the 2nd most common language in England! and 4th in Canada. Hong Kong, alone, has 260,000 Punjabi residents.

Ethnic garb is common in Hong Kong. Native African males in earth-toned body-length robes walk about and so do those from the Islamic community:

Then I scuttled passed them to get this shot. (I work so hard for my pictures; )

One afternoon, a friend and I walked around the skyscrapers of the business district. We expected to see an Asian version of Wall Street, but to the contrary, what we got resembled an urban picnic. Workers were sitting outside of buildings and on the streets, playing cards and eating. They were having a ball and were game for a pose:

It looked so warm and inviting, I had to jump in:

Just hanging with the gals.

Turns out it was Chinese Labor Day and streets were blocked off to give workers some space to kick it. But for an “international” post, I do have to admit that the workers were strikingly similar in ethnicity (and gender). Indeed, in this district, Hong Kong was owned by Filipino women, hailing from the not-too-distant archipelago nation, The Philippines.

For years, Filipino folks have come in much the same capacity as Latinos to the U.S.—to offer their labor for much higher wages than they can get back home.

At another gathering of workers—and there were many of them this day—we stopped to chat it up for a few. They had some home cooking to offer for a great price.

My buddy, Erik, and I enjoy Filipino picnic food.

While eating, I asked where all the men were. Some talked about how the men were out doing their own thing, but I’m pretty certain that there simply aren’t (m)any Filipino men around. Many of these women come here by themselves for the wages and then send the money back home. (I know a couple in Zhuhai who do this same thing.) Several have children back home, too. They’re with Grandma, or perhaps Dad, while Mommy is away to help ensure her kids a better life.

Many of them work as house cleaners and caretakers of other’s children. (This adds a sad irony to their lives, being there for others’ kids while her kids are mom-less back home.) It seems unfair and perhaps it is. But the way these women see it, they are grateful Hong Kong is here to provide them this better alternative. From what many have said, it beats what’s waiting for them back in The Philippines.

Thus, many choose this path and it’s super nice to see the support amongst them.

A mommy on the left, as a matter of fact.

Finally, I’ll say that the Western world is obviously well-represented in Hong Kong as well. Heck, Britain owned it for 150 years. I didn’t get a lot of good shots, but many tens of thousands live here and even more, like myself, come to visit.

But whether it’s the Punjabi, the Filipino, or the American, the foundation of Hong Kong’s population is Chinese. For how diverse it is, it’s surprising to note that they make up over 90% of the people. So for the last pic, I’ll give you a picture of who I thought fits the “Hong Kong” image pretty darn well:

A slick, stylin', smokin' Hong Konger.

Hong Kong is a magnet for many kinds of people. It’s a wonder to watch them all interact, and yet, maintain their identity. Because as such, it reveals the fine line humans walk in this regard.

To new plateaus,

-Brandon

 

Hong Kong: a different kind of China

05 May

Gee, I’m starting to think the Chinese are a little lazy over here. We just enjoyed our second long weekend in as many months. It turns out that May 1st is labor day in this neck of the Earth. So I decided to take advantage with another weekend outing. But rather than the quiet, magical beauty of Yangshuo, I thought I’d give the opposite end of the spectrum a shot. Hong Kong.

Lucky for me, it’s only a 70 minute ferry ride away.

Now, China is a big place (duh). But despite our tendencies to group things together, most know that China isn’t the same everywhere you go. And Hong Kong is a place that reinforces this truth. It’s quite different. More than that, it has the power to challenge our ideas about what makes a city/country work effectively.

It’s tough to define Hong Kong but with picture, word, and video I’ll give it a shot. :)

But first, I had to get there…

Like I said, it’s only a boat ride away from Zhuhai. Take a look at our dear map here:

Hong Kong to the right. Zhuhai to the left. Notice the colorization.

I got to the ferry terminal on Saturday morning. And I wasn’t the only one headed to Hong Kong:

A Chinese tour group awaits a weekend of site seeing. Giddyup

And as often is the case with cross-border travel, it’s hurry up and wait:

This wouldn't be the only line today.

But the ferry to Hong Kong is actually pretty low key. No pad downs or anything.

Soon we went outside to meet her:

A beaut, ain't she?

The engines rumbled as we bounced and glided smoothly over the water. Land gave way to sea which soon gave way to the islands of Hong Kong. But before I could enjoy my destination, there was one more line. And this one’s a doozy.

Our low key trip was met with "high key" trips from all over China, converging here at customs to get into Hong Kong.

“But wait a sec?”, you say. “Customs? Isn’t Hong Kong China?”

Well, yes and no. And because the history of this place explains so darn much and helps you appreciate it, I’ll entertain you (yes, entertain) with just a bit right here:

Hong Kong region was returned to China from Britain in 1997. Britain used the island back in the day for a harbor. A war between them and China in the 1840’s granted Britain the island permanently and the surrounding area land for 150 years. Then came 1997. And since the other chunks of land were to be returned to China, Britain thought, “why not give it all back?” And so they did, island and all.

So up until 1997 Hong Kong was another country. (That’s why your clothes said “Made in Hong Kong” and not just “Made in China”.) Dwarfed by its giant mother-land, tiny Hong Kong stayed independent through the rough 20th century. British Law, Chinese citizens, a great harbor location and other factors to be sure, perpetuated the island to wealth. Its rise was in clear contrast to the mainland of China which lagged far behind.

Since the return, and since China has opened financial doors in surrounding cities, the contrast of Hong Kong is less drastic. But 150 years of British rule will have lasting effects. And in a matter of a few hours, (it was as if) I was in a whole other country.

So stop what your doing:

But just don’t bring any chickens:

And let me introduce you to the vibe of Hong Kong:

First the obvious. Since Hong Kong has enjoyed a recipe of prosperity, it has become a modern juggernaut in the areas of finance, banking, and shipping. Here’s the fruit:


An eye-popping skyline from atop Victoria's Peak

A mix of Western and Eastern opulence.

A clean, modern (almost futuristic) city and transportation system

Seriously, when I first stepped into the subway I thought I was in a simulator of “What the year 2020 will be like”. It had me asking what this city does so right to have better facilities than even New York. Prosperity has come to different parts of the world and for whatever reason, it’s working on all cylinders in Hong Kong.

But who built this city? Here’s a few pics of the people, an expressive population not afraid to be themselves:

Hong Kong performers doing the Argentine Tango.

Others here like to involve the audience a bit more:

I couldn't beat the price.

These ladies reached out to touch people in another way:

Jehovah's Witnesses.

Say what you want about the JW crew, but that lady on the left showed some stuff in the Good Book that I hadn’t thought about before. I appreciated the education, though my Lutheran heritage disapproved of her dismissal of the Trinity. ;)

She's got a nibble.

And yes, all this prosperity and activity has invited an expressive nightlife.

For the whole family:

A nightly light show.

And for those old enough to lift a glass:

A little party time

But as crazy as it is in the city (and some parts are so crazily busy–see video below) balance is found:

A more natural vibe

Hong Kong’s truly unique rise to world-wide status, provides for an equally unique list of highlights. Though it’s a tip on this giant continent, some neighborhoods feel like the center of world, never offering a dull moment. It’s a big world out there, folks. But even one city, half-way around the world will teach you something about yourself. Because it teaches you about people.

This was just a teaser. Stay tuned for more Hong Kong.

to new plateaus,

-Brandon

Videos :)

Busy Hong Kong

Hong Kong Transportation

 

China: approachably abrasive

01 May

I’m sure you have an idea of how protests are handled in China. Eight months of hearing what locals and expats have to say has only solidified my assumptions. In fact, I learned that all gatherings are a no-no. Heck, this includes private ones of more than, say, a dozen in one’s home.

So upon hearing about a protest, I had to see this with my own peepers. And I learned, first hand, how China can be both a very approachable, yet abrasive place to be.

Here’s what happened.

I arrived to the scene and people were gathered around a nearby government building. I’d say there were 150 people spread along the sidewalk, centered around the entrance to the gated complex:

It was a peaceful event. No megaphones. No “Hell no, we won’t go!”. They just sat and stood behind a banner. They did block the entrance. Maybe that was their play:

Showing their cards

Chinese sources (okay, a couple co-workers) tell me this says something about a rural people claiming unfair treatment. They were having some “living problems” but the government wasn’t doing anything to help.

It’s funny. In a country that relies so heavily on government—not for economic support so much, but for morale, security, and identity—you’d think there’d be more reasons for protest and controversy. Yet few are had. China has that lid on pretty tight and I’ve found the people are pretty compliant in the process. But today these brave souls were making a stink.

Two guards normally stood at attention in front of this place; today there were a few more. [And let me say a word about police here, overall. They’re relaxed and approachable—less of the tough-guy abrasion I’m used to with law enforcement. I walked by this same government complex a month back and said hello to the at-attention guard. He smiled and said hello back. Another time I walked past armed guards around some ATMs—the first time I saw a gun here (no guns allowed in China). I wanted a picture and half-expected a tough grimace and head-cock saying “get you and your camera out of here”. But he just smiled and posed.

There’s a million reasons for the comfortable treatment—the populace isn’t armed, so not a threat. The people are homogeneous, so maybe feel more at ease. Maybe it’s an East vs. West cultural thing. But another factor I’ve realized is the country’s organization. The very top of government houses the population in a social bubble. There’s a confinement, but within this bubble things seem more relaxed. This creates kind of an all-or-nothing policing approach and protests (and almost all organized gatherings) are seen as potential burst to this bubble.

Also a threat is any media that they see as oxygen to a flame. So I reckon this was why a foreigner with a camera turned a head or two. I figured I could get away with a couple shots before they asked me to leave. That’s pretty much what happened. There were a lot of eyes on me. The officers whispered to each other and pointing in my direction. And many of the protesters looked my way.

Additionally, I was caught in the middle of a brief confusion when some protesters inside the cordoned-off area lifted the ropes for me to enter. I didn’t bite, though, and kept pacing away from the action, listening to the officers. There were also a couple of plain-clothes guys that were actually more hostile toward me than the uniforms. One asked who I worked for. "I’m a teacher", I said.

Then during the walk back, protesters began lining across the street in what looked like an attempt to block traffic. (video below) This was a bigger deal. A plain-clothes fella pushed and followed me a good 100 feet past this action. He definitely didn’t want me to record this disobedience. When I last looked back, busses were honking and cops were in the street redirecting traffic. The protesters seemed to manage a little chaos.

And apparently the police wanted these rabble-rousers on camera:

Later that evening, I rode past the scene on my way to teach. Everything was back to normal. I asked a Chinese friend to read the news online to see if the rare protest made headlines, but she found nothing. To the vast majority of the people in Zhuhai, this event did not take place. And that’s pretty much how they want it be around here.

In America, I had heard about suppression of the citizens and censorship. But the impression from being here is that the Chinese government and people are both are very good at this arrangement. The government is effective at blocking media, crowd control, etc. I think the biggest factor, though, is a public that’s complicit.

It’s funny to bring up complacence in a post about a protest. But there’s a disparity between their action and that of most foreigners. Most of my non-Chinese acquaintances easily get around the Internet blocks and even watch American TV—which is also blocked. The Chinese, though able, just don’t seem interested in breaching the bubble. If I mention a good article that’s on a blocked site, a Chinese friend will just nod with no intention of subverting. And the government provides the citizens with Internet equivalents to Facebook, Twitter, and YouTube. So I doubt many, if even a handful of residents, mentioned the protest on the Internet.

Rarely do I hear criticism about government censorship, regulation, bureaucracy, etc.

And I say all this as neutrally as I can, Readers. Because one thing that I’ve learned is that people prefer different things in different places. And some differences run deep. China’s whole social structure rests on a plain that differs from America’s and comes across as both more restrictive and more free. It’s approachably abrasive. And recognizing this polarizing reality helps you better understand China.

To new plateaus,

-Brandon